Peter Charles Lev

March4, 1950 – April 27, 2025

Peter Charles Lev, 85, passed away on April 27, 2025, in Portland, Oregon. Born on March 4, 1950, in Los Angeles, California, Peter spent most of his life in the mountains—climbing, skiing, avalanche forecasting, and, as he often said, escaping the “real world.” His passion for the outdoors shaped both his adventurous spirit and his life’s work.

Peter began guiding for Exum Mountain Guides in 1960, where he found not just a job but a calling. As he continued to build up his experience with Exum he also served as the rock climbing director at the Minnesota Outward Bound from 1967-70.

In 1978, he purchased a portion of the Exum from Glenn Exum, helping carry forward Glenn’s legacy and playing a key role in shaping Exum into the respected institution it is today. After retiring from Exum in 2006, Peter continued guiding for another four years with Sylvan Rocks in the South Dakota Needles, finally hanging up his guiding gear at age 70. He continued to climb and ski, well into his late seventies.

An early pioneering climber and alpinist, Peter made several first ascents. He was among the first documented to establish Certain Death 5.8+ in Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT; Basque Cirque Route 5.8 (1972) Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT; Vertigo 5.11b (1961) in Eldorado Canyon, CO; Northwest Corner 5.11- (1966) Eldorado, Canyon, CO; and Enclosure Ice Couloir 5.6 Grand Teton, WY(1963). Other notable first ascents include the Lev Route on the Underhill Ridge of the Grand Teton (1960), the East Buttress of Denali (1963), and Chulu West in Nepal (1978).

Peter was also a member and guide for several major mountaineering expeditions, including the North Face of Mount Robson (1969), American Dhaulagiri Expedition (1973), the U.S.-USSR Pamir Expedition (1974), the American-Indian Nanda Devi Expedition (1976), Island Peak (1977), Mount Huntington (1980), and Tent Peak, Tharpu Chuli (1984).

Beyond climbing, Peter dedicated much of his life to skiing, snow science and avalanche forecasting. He worked as a ski patroller at Vail Mountain (1964–65) and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (1965–67), a ski instructor at Bridger Bowl (1967–70), and a heli-ski guide for Wiegele Heli-Skiing (1975–81) in British Columbia. He served as a research assistant for the U.S. Army Mountain Snowpack Project at Montana State University (1967–70), a snow ranger for the U.S. Forest Service (1970–75), an instructor for the National Avalanche School for the Forest Service (1972-83), an instructor for the American Avalanche Institute (beginning in 1976), an associate professor of Snow Dynamics at the University of Utah (1982–90), and an avalanche forecaster for Alta Ski Area and the Utah Department of Transportation (1983–90). Peter also wrote extensively on avalanche terrain and served as an expert witness in several court cases involving mountain accidents.

Peter parlayed his keen observations of the natural world into long range weather forecasting, starting in the mid 1980s. He provided forecasts for agricultural interests, ski areas, Himalayan mountaineering expeditions, an around-the-world sailboat race, and even a Hollywood movie, True Lies. He continued refining his system and making weather observations up until the day he died.

Despite his many accomplishments Peter was always a humble man, he didn’t care for the spotlight and often spoke about how the ego is the most dangerous thing you can carry into the mountains. He was a strong leader and a steady mentor to many people throughout the years.

More than anything though, Peter was a devoted father to his daughter, Alexandra, taking immense pride in passing down his love for the mountains to her. In the final years of his life, his greatest joy was becoming a grandfather, a role he embraced with deep love and joy.

Peter shared important chapters of his life with four women: Deborah Bradford, Sandy Wayman, Joni Dykstra, and Roiann Baird. He is survived by his daughter, Alexandra, and her husband, Brad; his granddaughter, Gemma; his sister, Louise, and her children, Kimberly, Julie, Kristin, and Jeffrey. He is also survived by Alexandra’s mother, Joni, with whom he shared the joy of parenthood.

He was preceded in death by his wife, Roiann Baird.

Peter will be remembered for his adventurous spirit, unique worldview, and fiercely independent nature. He leaves behind family and friends who loved him deeply and a lasting legacy among the climbing and skiing communities.

A public celebration of life will be held in Salt Lake City at the end of September. Details to follow in the coming months.